To rivet it, I bought a chunk of 2x2x1/8" angle iron, and match drilled every other hole in the trailing edge of the rudder. My inspiration came from Tim Olson's instructions. Put a rivet in every other hole, taped them then cleco'd all the open holes to the angle iron. After it was done I wish I would have left 5-6 holes without rivets because then you could use them to hold down the rudder in a few spots once you flip it and do the rest of the rivets.
To actually drive the rivets, start with the backrivet set and start it, then finish off with the mushroom set. I don't think mine turned out that great, but don't have anything to compare to. The trailing edge however is super straight and that's the important part.
I did the last two steps out of order because I didn't have a pipe for rolling the leading edge laying around. Here I bent the leading ledge and fitted the counterweight. Its a heavy chunk of metal (maybe lead). Feels like it nearly doubles the weight of the whole rudder.
First you crease the skins where they fold over the counterweight, then use a couple wood blocks and a soft hammer to actually make the crease.
In the process I found the first use for my super beefy DOTCO angle drill. Doubt it was 100% necessary but did make it easier.
The leading edge counterweight installed. The instructions give you an option last step of putting another rivet in the middle to snug down any "pillowed" metal. Mine exhibited this a bit, so I did it.
Last was rolling the leading edge. I bought both a 3/4" and 1" PVC Schedule 40 pipe for this, ended up using the 3/4" for all of it. It was a little bit of a bear because the curve changes over the length of the rudder.
Once you get it rolled somewhat close, cleco it, match drill, and pop rivet.
Done! This one took 38.3 hours. I sure love knocking these big pieces out. Now onto the big honkin Horizontal Stabilizer!
